Climbers Urged to Use Caution
The Teton Climbers’ Coalition and Jenny Lake Rangers are responding to reports of potentially unsafe glue-in bolts on several popular climbing routes at Lower Blacktail Butte in Grand Teton National Park.
On Monday, July 7, Jenny Lake Climbing Rangers discovered bolts on three routes that were visibly loose, wiggling by hand, and showing signs of epoxy degradation. The bolts were found on the following routes:
- Inconceivable (5.11a): 4th bolt
- Do the Right Thing (5.11c/d): 5th and 6th bolts
- Time Flies When You’re Alive / Higher Education: Top-access bolts
The faulty bolts are Petzl glue-ins, which require a notched and countersunk rock placement to remain secure. Without this, the bolts can work loose due to cantilevering forces. In contrast, most bolts at Lower Blacktail appear to be Fixe glue-ins that were properly installed and remain secure.
Given that the suspect bolts are found adjacent to cruxes, it’s possible that the loosening is the result of multiple falls over multiple years.
The Teton Climbers’ Coalition has been leading a climbing modernization effort to address aging hardware across Teton climbing areas. Recent rebolting at Upper Blacktail Butte over the past two years replaced outdated hardware with Wave Bolts, which are currently performing as expected. However, Lower Blacktail’s bolts were installed decades ago, and a small number now warrant closer inspection and replacement.
What Climbers Should Know:
- Avoid trusting any bolt that can be wiggled by hand.
- Document and report suspect hardware using the TCC’s Bad Bolt Form.
- Temporary warning tags may be placed at the base of impacted climbs (pending Park approval) to notify others.
Replacement of the faulty bolts is expected to begin Sunday, July 20, pending the return of TCC stewardship team member Garrick Hart, currently guiding on the Grand Teton.
For more information, updates, or to report a bolt of concern, please visit www.tetonclimbers.com or email info@tetonclimbers.com.