On July 7, 2025, Jenny Lake Climbing Rangers discovered potentially unsafe glue-in bolts on three routes at the Lower Blacktail Butte wall. Several bolts were found to be loose and wiggle-able by hand, with epoxy chipping away. The affected bolts were identified on the following routes:
- Inconceivable (5.11a) – 4th bolt.
- Do the Right Thing (5.11c/d) – 5th and 6th bolts.
- Time Flies When You’re Alive/Higher Education – top access bolts.
After issuing a safety advisory urging climbers to proceed with extreme caution, the Rangers reached out to the Teton Climbers’ Coalition (TCC) to coordinate a rapid response. TCC immediately rallied experienced community members and secured the specialized equipment and hardware provided by the American Safe Climbing Association to address the issue.
On Sunday, July 20, a skilled team of Garrick Hart, Tom Hargis, Justin Tatosian, Hans Johnstone, Rob Werner, and Jenny Lake Ranger Cody Evans replaced the suspect bolts with modern, high-strength glue-ins. To minimize impact on the natural rock, the team undertook the labor-intensive process of carefully removing the old bolts and reusing the same holes for the replacements—a time- and labor-intensive method that demands precision but ensures environmental stewardship.
According to Garrick Hart, “We were able to get the three lead bolts that [Jenny Lake Ranger] Zack [Little] found loose totally out, and reused the hole for new glue-ins. We also shored up all three of the access anchors for the routes.”
Completed Work:
- Inconceivable (5.11a) – 4th bolt replaced.
- Do the Right Thing (5.11b/c) – 5th and 6th bolts replaced.
- All three toprope access anchors replaced.
A detailed inspection of the remaining bolts at the lower crag confirmed that all other hardware is sound. Climbers are advised to wait until Tuesday, July 22 to allow the epoxy to fully cure before climbing.
The original bolts, installed around 2000, were secured with epoxy rated for 50+ years. At that time, the bolt manufacturer advised against countersinking glue-in bolts, meaning the bolt heads were flush with the rock. Over years of repeated falls, leverage caused additional wear on a few of these placements. Although the removed bolts were still remarkably strong, the new glue-ins, installed with modern best practices, will ensure long-term safety.
TCC thanks the Jenny Lake Rangers for identifying the issue and providing oversight, and @asca_bolt_replacement for supplying the necessary hardware. Climbers who encounter suspect hardware are encouraged to report it using the Bad Bolt form on the TCC website.
For additional details, visit @jennylakerangers on Instagram or check updates from TCC.