In early 2022, Teton climbers filled out a survey to identify priorities they wanted to see the Teton Climbers’ Coalition address.
More than 67% of respondents indicated their number one priority was the inspection and replacement of aging bolts and anchors throughout the Greater Teton climbing area.
Accordingly, the TCC embarked on a multi-year Climbing Area Modernization (CAM) Project, an effort to monitor, inspect and replace climbing hardware as necessary to ensure a safe climbing experience for this and future generations.
The project began in the spring of 2022, when the TCC’s stewardship team, including Hart, Chris Owen, Wesley Gooch and Tom Hargis, began inspecting bolts and anchors at Blacktail Butte, a cragging area that exists within Grand Teton National Park boundaries. Some of the Blacktail Butte routes, and their hardware, are more than 40 years old.
Over the summer, TCC board members met with GTNP staff to discuss the replacement of aging infrastructure with safe, modern equipment that will last multiple generations. A “best practices” guideline for new route development was created to inform replacement strategies. Additionally, TCC board members invite the routes’ developers to participate in the hardware modernization effort.
In 2022 alone, the CAM Project replaced nearly 100 bolts and anchors on nine routes on the Crackin’ the Cherry and Rock Candy Nugget walls at Blacktail Butte.
In 2023, a team of dedicated community members finished the Crackin’ the Cherry and Rock Candy Nugget walls at Blacktail Butte. State-of-the-art hardware, including the installation of mussy hook drop-in anchors, has replaced lead bolts and top anchors across multiple routes, significantly enhancing safety measures.
At Rodeo Wall, volunteers from the CAM Project successfully installed mussy hook drop-in anchors on approximately half of the routes, further elevating safety standards at this popular climbing area.
Efforts are underway to complete the Blacktail Butte hardware replacements in 2024, finish the installation of mussy hook anchors at Rodeo Wall, and install mussy hook anchors at the Hoback Shield.
“Crags throughout the greater Teton climbing area provide community members with climbing opportunities all summer long,” said TCC board member Garrick Hart. “Problematically, many of the routes in these areas are equipped with hardware (bolts and anchors) that are decades old. This hardware needs to be regularly inspected and, when necessary, replaced with modern equipment.”
Those interested in supporting the project may make donations to the TCC through Old Bill’s Fun Run. Please click here to donate now.